Masking tape

As a professional decorator, Graham has a super-steady hand and only uses masking tape along the bottom of the skirting board to protect carpets and wooden floors. But amateur house painters will find it easier to mask surfaces adjoining the wall they don’t want painted. Tape masking tape to skirting boards, around the floor, windows, door frames and the ceiling.

Paint brushes

You can buy inexpensive paint brushes, but you may be better off investing in higher quality ones. “You need to choose a good brush,” said Graham, adding: “I use Purdy brushes which are quite expensive, but they last and hold a good amount of paint.  Cheap brushes often have loose bristles that can come off when you paint and stick to a wall.” Brushes come in different sizes, so you’ll need to consider the job you want it to do and the type of paint you’ll be using. Synthetic bristles are used for applying water-based paints whereas natural bristles are best for oil-based paints. “You can get badger hair brushes which are used by specialist decorators but for more general use, I use mainly synthetic brushes,” said Graham.

Drop clothes

Drop clothes are essential to protect furniture and floors from paint splatters and spills. Plastic drop clothes are cheap but are mostly binned after just one use whereas canvas lasts longer and is less of a tripping hazard.  Graham said: “I prefer cotton twill to plastic drop clothes. I just find plastic tends to be slippery underfoot.” Or perhaps, you have an old sheet lurking in the back of your linen cupboard that could do the job. Remember to roll up any rugs and remove paintings and pictures from walls.

Cutting-in

When painting interior walls, start with a technique called “cutting-in” to give a nice, straight edge. To cut in, paint along the top of the wall in a horizonal line, using firm and steady strokes, back and forth. “I use a two-inch wide paintbrush for cutting-in,” said Graham who uses the same technique to paint above the skirting board and around windows, door frames, light switches and sockets as well as corners.

Paint roller and tray

A paint roller is better than a brush for covering large areas of wall.  Graham said: “I use a nine-inch roller and frame. You don’t want to use anything smaller than that really.”  Pour the paint into the tray and dip the roller in. “Get a reasonable amount of paint on the roller but don’t overload it and apply to the wall with a firm, even pressure. Start at the top – at the edge where you have already cut-in a two-inch strip of paint - and roll down to the bottom. Roll up and down a couple of times. Then fill the roller up again, to paint another nine-inch section with fresh paint but go over the last one slightly so you have a wet edge all the time.” This prevents any gaps. Continue until you have painted the whole wall, then wait for it to dry and repeat. “You will need at least two coats of paint,” said Graham.

Extension pole

If you’re painting a ceiling or wall, it’s worth buying an extension handle for your roller. They are easy to find in DIY stores. It saves you lugging around a ladder and climbing up and down steps. “It’s definitely easier painting with an extension roller and you get a slightly smoother finish then a roller on its own,” said Graham.

Sand wall before applying second coat of paint

When you have finished the first coat of paint, wait for it to dry and then rub down with 180-grit sanding paper for a professional finish. “It gets ride of any bits or blobs that may have got on the wall from the roller,” said Graham.

To prime or not to prime?

A primer or undercoat is only really necessary when you’re painting over a dark colour, said Graham. “If the wall is a very dark colour, for example red or blue, and you want to change it to a lighter colour like cream, you probably should put white emulsion on first which will block the darker colour. But if you’re painting white on white, you don’t need an undercoat first and can just use two coats of white emulsion.”